Meskel in Gurage

By Mina Yirga

History describes Ethiopia as being one of the oldest Christian nations in the world.

The co-existing diverse cultures of Ethiopia are manifested in various ways of life and customs. The richness of Ethiopian culture is most evident on holidays, of which Meskel (The Finding of the True Cross) is a popular one celebrated by Ethiopian Christians between the 3 rd and 4 th week of September.

Meskel finds its true form among the Gurage people who inhabit south-central Ethiopia .

‘Kestanae' is a Guragae sub group and has its own tradition in celebrating Meskel, starting from 12 th of Meskerm (September 22) to 12 th of Tikemt.(October 23 rd )

On Meskerem 12 th, the ‘mesob' which is a traditional serving basket, will be brought to its place of honor. Usually the ‘mesob' is only needed for such purposes and its put aside as a décor until Meskel comes round. Following this, the lady of the house's (the mother) day begins. This day is known as ‘Welkene'. All the family is expected to feed their mother until she is satisfied; metaphorically to indicate they are preparing her for the very tiring Meskel preparations that follow.

Welkene,welkene

Meshet yegeraw kene

Teambel yegram kone ,

Literally translated, it's a day that a woman gets satisfied, even if it's with cabbage water. Usually cabbage is eaten on ordinary days, so no one will expect ‘gomen' [cabbage] on a special day like Meskel.

The third day will officially be the “mothers' day” this is because the women are the ones in charge of going out shopping for ‘ayeb' and gomen , (Cheese and cabbage).One of the traditional ceremonies known as “Dengaesat” gets underway. Customarily, it's foretold that ‘Dengasat' has a derivative meaning from ‘dengasa', which in Guragna connotes the traditional clay plate used to serve food. Every one in the family has their own ‘dengasa' . The women on this day furnish houses with ‘giba'( carpet like floor covering made of dried grass) and the ‘mesob' will be placed in the middle and ‘birchuma'(traditional wooden chair) will be positioned around the ‘mesob'.

All the kids are outside their home, lighting the ‘chebo'(bonfire)until they are told to come home for the night's ceremony by their mother. The mother has been busy making the traditional food known as ‘Ambel'(a mixture of cheese and cabbage) and her daughter/s has to help her count the family members and relatives that are to be included in the ceremonial. Even if the family or relatives are far away, are reachable or not, she has to prepare their share as a symbolic recollection.

When the preparations are over, every one circles the ‘mesob' and start eating from ‘their dengasat' with the traditional spoon called ‘ankefo'. The food is eaten with ‘kotcho', (false banana, a staple of the Guragae.). Youngsters who can, will finish their share on the day. Those who can't must do so tomorrow. The fourth day will be the men's turn to buy the oxen. Thus, the day will be named as ‘the fathers or the men's day'. Another festivity continues, the ‘chebo' will be lit to show that the man has brought home an ox for his lady and is ready to please his family and relatives. The day will be enjoyed by eating ‘ketfo'(minced meat garnished with hot pepper and butter)

The leftovers from the ox (especially the ribs) will be desiccated by putting it in salt till Meskerm 24(October 5 th ). At this particular date, a campfire will be setup outside the home and relatives will join the feast.

The girls from the village will be dancing and playing. Almost everyday marking the event is heartwarming. On Tikemet 5(October 16 th ), the entire family will gather for a blessing (the ‘mesob' and the ‘giba' remain throughout the month). This day indicates that Meskel time is going to be concluded. Before it ends they want to gather and observe the spiritual rituals. Traditional food as the ‘Dengasa' day will be brought to the family.

After enjoying the meal; the eldest person will start blessing all and wish to see the same gathering for next year's Meskel and prays for the family's unending wealth and continued good health. Now the ‘mesob' goes back inside as an interior decoration. By tradition, no one will fail to spot ‘kotcho' inside the ‘mesob'. Anyone who bets will win because if some one fails to see ‘kotcho', it is thought to be very shameful.

Unlike the ‘Demera', (a towering heap of dry tree twigs lit around the evening) in ‘Kestane' region it's called the ‘Ye kesel kene' (the ‘charcoal day' literally translated).It got this name because the bonfire has already been burnt and only the smoke and ashes are left. On this day, newly weds are the ones pressed to sing and dance. Usually the newly brides appear out of their bridal dwellings after 6 months of honeymoon for the first time at this particular moment. Exactly one month later, the women will hold a bouquet of ‘Adeye Ababa'(summer daisies) and will go out to lament noisily indicating that the Meskel is over.

Erengadiyo,eringid

Mekerm nenged,zenderem nenged,

Weyeo meskel fekayaem aweyu

Lament saying “Meskel is going to be over and that's why I am crying.”

On that day, a girl who goes to her father's farm and places the bunch of ‘Adey Ababa',she has at the ‘enset'(false banana plants) her father owns, will get the ‘enset' she has selected as her reward.

The formal rites have already begun for native Gurages and we are waiting for the evening ‘dengasat'…….enjoy the night!