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‘This is a real look into our lives’: the Maasai women photographing their people

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Two Maasai photographers chronicle the daily challenges facing pastoralist women as the climate crisis increases their burden of care, and food, fuel and water become scarcer

By Caroline Kimeu in Amboseli

In Esiteti, a Maasai village in southern Kenya, Pilale Rikoiyan cooks a large pot of rice for her grandchildren. While she and her family have adjusted to having plain grain whenever they run out of produce or are low on meat, preparing the meal makes her nostalgic for the days when her homestead owned several heads of cattle. The herd guaranteed a consistent supply of meat and milk, and an income for produce and other needs.

“Life has changed so much from that time,” says 69-year-old Rikoiyan. “We never used to work so hard daily to put food on the table.”

A prolonged drought that has gripped the country and the wider horn of Africa has made life more challenging for women in pastoralist communities, who bear primary responsibility for securing food, water and fuel.

The growing care burden of these women on the frontline of the climate crisis is the subject of a recent photo series by Maasai photographers Claire Metito and Irene Naneu. Chronicling the everyday experiences of two elderly women, the photographers provide an intimate view of the increased, and often undervalued, domestic load that they shoulder.

Metito and Naneu were among 14 women in Kenya and Ghana who took part in a programme by Lensational, a social enterprise that supports underrepresented women to learn photography and document the changes happening in their lives on issues such as climate breakdown.

Metito chose to depict her mother-in-law Rikoiyan’s experiences because the matriarch’s life reflects the harsh realities that have become normalised, even among the women themselves. Rikoiyan and other women in their seven-family household go to great lengths to care for sick cattle and keep their herd alive, but they have lost most of their cows to the drought in recent years, and have to rely for milk on goats, which produce only a fraction of the supply.

As their herd dwindles and food insecurity grows, so does the demand for care work. Children get sick more often due to malnourishment, meaning that women devote more time nursing them back to health.

Metito, a nursery school teacher and mother of four, sees Rikoiyan wake up at the break of dawn each morning to begin housework and childcare as Metito and other women in their multigenerational household trek for hours to find firewood and grazing sites for their cattle, hoping to get as much done as they can before the afternoon, when heat stress slows them down. Grasslands have thinned out due to the drought, so they need to walk several kilometres further than they used to.

“This is a real and authentic look into her life – into all of our lives,” says Metito, who lives in Rikoiyan’s homestead. “The work you see her doing is something we’re all familiar with. It is hard, but we’ve become used to it, so it’s no longer something that is seen as out of the ordinary.”

Women’s climate networks say that governments need to provide social safety nets and alternative livelihoods for those whose needs and responsibilities have become heightened by the crisis, and to invest in infrastructure that supports women from marginalised communities.

Closer health facilities in Esiteti, for instance, would allow women to spend less time managing the healthcare needs of their family, community members say. And proper roads would increase market traders’ access to the village and reduce the time women spend securing food. Currently, traders only venture into the village once a week because the roads are in poor condition, so women need to cross over to neighbouring Tanzania each week, a walk of several hours each way.

Female photographers trained by Lensational say visual storytelling is a powerful tool for their community, which faces marginalisation and illiteracy, and a way to disrupt the barriers that often keep their realities and perspectives from full view.

Naneu’s images capture the life of Lenoi Mayiempe, a farmer from Narok in southern Kenya, who is the primary guardian of her two grandchildren. Mayiempe has managed to keep many heads of cattle despite the drought, but faces challenges getting water as rivers and dams dry up. Unpredictable rain patterns have made it difficult to count on a healthy yield, so she leases out part of her land to community members to manage the risk. She began managing the property after her husband died, but it belongs to her two sons. Gender norms that restrict land ownership by women also expose them to vulnerability.

“In Narok, women are the ones who rear cattle, fetch water and look after the kids,” says Naneu. “They take care of the wealth but husbands control it, so many women have unmet needs and end up suffering in silence.”

Naneu and Metito say their photography work has allowed them to share authentic representations of Maasai women, reignited their interest in everyday happenings in their communities, and enabled them to understand the issues they face more deeply.

“Getting behind the camera and hearing how people are being affected, that’s when I truly understood the extent of the situation we are facing with climate change,” says Naneu.

British Army museum hires Ethiopian academic to name looted colonial artefacts

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A British Army museum has called in an academic to explore the attraction’s colonial connections and reveal which of its artefacts were looted from Ethiopia.

The King’s Own Royal Regiment Museum in Lancaster is understood to house objects taken during a 19th-century campaign in Ethiopia which have a deep cultural significance for the modern nation.

Eyob Derillo, an Ethiopian specialist and author of histories of magic, has been engaged to establish which objects were seized during the campaign.

He said: “This project holds immense potential to shed new light on a historical event that has shaped the region’s past.

“By fostering collaboration, inclusivity, and academic rigour, the museum aims to contribute to cultural understanding and historical enrichment, ultimately creating a more nuanced and accurate narrative surrounding the Abyssinia Expedition.”

The museum, which is dedicated to the disbanded King’s Own regiment, has pledged to establish which of its artefacts were looted by British forces.

The project comes amid calls from Ethiopia and its supporters in the UK, including a former Archbishop of Canterbury, to return looted treasures seen as sacred by many in the Ethiopian Orthodox Church.

Robin Ashcroft, chair of the museum’s trustees, said that the venue would aim not only to tell the stories of “the experiences of the regiment’s soldiers” but also “our adversaries, who we met on the battlefield”.

He added: “Our ambition is to now work in partnership with stakeholders from Ethiopia in bringing a fully rounded perspective and involvement in what was a truly an extraordinary event.”

The “event” was the 1868 invasion of Abyssinia by British forces, including the King’s Own Royal Regiment, to secure hostages.

The conflict resulted in the sacking of the capital of the fortress of Magdala, the death of Emperor Tewodros II, and the looting of sacred texts and revered objects associated with Abyssinian royalty.

It is understood that the museum may house a piece of shirt used to wipe blood from the body of Tewodros.

A lock of hair belonging to his son Prince Alemayehu, a defeated Abyssinian royal who became acquainted with Queen Victoria after being brought to Britain, was last year returned to Ethiopia

There have been repeated calls, including by Lord Carey, the former Archbishop of Canterbury, to return a set of “tabots” or sacred tablets held in the Brtish Museum where they are never studied out of respect for their significance to the Ethiopian Orthodox Church. (The Telegraph)

Asia In The Evolution Of International Trade

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Alazar Kebede

The world economic history well recorded the beautiful story of how Asian countries shaped the international trade more than a millennium ago. Stewart Gordon revisited this phenomenon in his 2008 published book entitled “When Asia Was the World: Traveling Merchants, Scholars, Warriors and Monks Who Created the ‘Riches of the East”.

Stewart Gordon stated that the Asian world in 500-1500 CE, was a place of great empires and large capital cities. In Southeast Asia were the kingdoms of “Srivajaya, Pagan, Angkor, Champa and Dai Viet”. China went through dynastic changes but was strongly linked to the rest of Asia. India had empires as well such as the “Kushans, the sultanates and the Mughals based at Delhi, as well as the “Cholas and Vijayanagara” in the south. The Middle East had the “Abbasid Caliphate”. Central Asia had “Genghis Khan’s empire”, the largest the world has ever known, and it had the empire of “Timur”. The populations of these realms were, in many cases, larger than the whole of Western Europe.

According to Stewart Gordon, Asia was a vast world of contrast, from deserts to mountains, from monsoon rain forest to dry plains. It held a bewildering variety of cultures and languages, many local religions and varieties of Buddhism, Islam and Hinduism that spread across wide regions. But it was its networks that made the great Asian world unique. Bureaucrats, scholars, slaves, ideas, religions and plants moved along its intersecting routes. Family ties stretched across thousands of miles. Traders found markets for products ranging from heavy recycled bronze to the most diaphanous silks.

Asian empires tended to promote linkages and connections to other kingdoms in several ways. Often their own territories crossed “natural” ecological boundaries and brought together regions and societies in unexpected ways. The Kushans, the Afghans and the Mughals established empires that successfully ruled both sides of the formidable Himalayas. The South Indian Chola kingdom built a navy and conquered the islands of Sri Lanka, Java, and Sumatra, politically tying together India and Southeast Asia. Genghis Khan ruled both the steppe and large areas of agricultural China.

Stewart Gordon in his book stated that administrative continuities generally promoted trade between ecologically different regions in which the trade in horses from the steppe to the plains of India, in rice from south to north China, in steel from Damascus to Afghanistan. The big states also produced widely used currencies, such as Chinese cash and silver “Dirhams”, and established standards for normalising local weights and measures.

They also frequently organized postal systems for reliable communication. One could send a letter from Mangalore, India and have it arrive in Cairo, Egypt in slightly over a month. A letter of introduction went from the far Western border of India to Delhi and back in less than two months. Although the big capital cities such as Delhi, Beijing, and Baghdad, were impressive and often many times the size of any European city of the time, the importance of medium-sized cities cannot be overemphasised.

According to Stewart Gordon, these empires, by and large, rose by the expansion of power of a regional family based in a medium-sized city their regional capital. When empires fell, they generally devolved into regional successor states. The regional capitals usually not only survived, but also they thrived. Medium-sized cities thus remained long-term sources of demand, learning, and patronage, and in addition, they produced the bureaucrats necessary to run an empire.

Stewart Gordon noted that cities, large and small, needed basic food, fabric, fuel and building materials. The elite of these cities attracted the more sophisticated trade goods of the Asian world. The Chinese urban elite generated an almost insatiable demand for ivory, both African and Southeast Asian, which found its way into religious statues, pens, fans, boxes and the decoration of furniture. Their demand for the most aromatic incense in the world was filled by incense logs and bushes from Southeast Asia and India. The demand for elegant clothes and beautiful colors in population centers of the Middle East, India and Southeast Asia pushed discovery of and trade in new plant dyes.

According to Stewart Gordon, the urban centers were also places of specialized manufacture that created trade opportunities and employment for these skills. Cities produced books, artwork, fine fabrics, sophisticated musical instruments, jewelry and scientific instruments, all of which were in demand throughout the Asian world. Syria developed steelmaking to such a high art and in such quantity that traders brought its products to all parts of the Asian world. Damascus blades were just as ubiquitous in Indonesia as they were in Central Asia. China produced prodigious quantities of ceramics that were traded across the Asian world, from the Philippines and Japan to the west coast of Africa.

As Stewart Gordon well explained, trade mattered. The volume and variety of trade affected much of the population of the great Asian world. Tropical spices and medicines moved north to the plains of India, west into the Middle East and east into China. These medicinal plants were not “discovered” by doctors in cities, much less by the traders who brought them. These spices and medicines were first discovered by the forest dwellers who experimented with their local profusion of plants.

Trade served the spread of the universalising religions. Ritual objects and books of both Buddhism and Islam came from specialized centers and moved along both water routes and caravan routes to Tibet, Central Asia, Southeast Asia and China. Trade in the great Asian world included the exotic, the prosaic and everything in between. At one extreme, a giraffe was somehow transported from Africa to the imperial court of China.

At the other extreme, fish paste produced on the coast of Thailand and ordinary Chinese iron cooking pots were regular, profitable items traded to the islands of Southeast Asia. Rice, the most prosaic of foods in India, China and Southeast Asia, became a high-status food across the steppe world. Every ship and every caravan carried a range of goods from the precious to the mundane.

The Woes of Courting Exceptionalism

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By Samuel Estefanous

Parroting exceptionalism has been in vogue in this country for decades. It is some kind of character weakness most of us succumb to easily. We all know how Afro-centric local intellectuals have found it exceedingly tough to have their continental wide ideas take root in the hearts and minds of Ethiopians. 

Worse still lately some aging intellectuals in the twilight hours of their lives are contending that we are the last true surviving race of a lost Hebrew tribe.  In these wild fantasies one can detect a measure of self-loathing and blatantly denying one’s own African identity. In all honesty ordinary Habeshas (even educated ones) don’t understand how even the Falashas are singled out to be known as Betha Israeli worse still be identified as Jews. Not in so distant future I am certain some studies might surface debunking all the theories attributing a Jewish identity to the Falashas. I would rather accept them as converts to Judaism. 

I mean as an Old Testament Nation the whole of Habesha is heir to Hebraic antics in religion and culture and the Falashas aren’t any different. We are a little embarrassed to admit or say it but we all know that regular folks (in some instance even College Professors) assume that the Israelis are the true original Christians. I bet if a polling agency were to conduct a sample study to determine how many Ethiopians consider the Israelis to be bona fide Christians the outcome would make the whole wide world laugh at us.       

Perhaps that is why some local Pan Africanist writers like Tsegaye Gebremedhin almost bent backwards to dislodge the myth of the Israeli descent and localize African agendas. Professor Haile Gerima assigned himself a herculean task of trying to understand Ethiopian contemporary issues through an African kaleidoscope.  The last Emperor and the heads of the military Junta epitomized the struggle for Pan Africanism. The late Premier tried to chart out the fate of Africa independently of Western models curved out “to fit Africans”. However, this enduring state level policy hardly trickles down to the ranks of the regular folks.

 1- Sithed Siketelat( ስትሃድ ስከተላት)

It had been nearly two hundred years since the British had set themselves a grand ‘mission civilisatrice’ to abolish slavery. You see even prior to the adoption of the Slavery Abolition Act of August 1834 by the House of Commons, there was a large grassroots vocal anti-slavery movement in the whole of the British dominion. The Brits were actually patrolling the high seas to search, apprehend and prosecute American, Spanish, Portuguese and Arab slave ships all over the Atlantic and Indian Seas. Those notorious patrol ships used to terrorize the monstrous blood sucking fat vermin sneaking slaves in to the United States, Central America, the Caribbean, Brazil and the Arab Gulf Emirates.

But these past two hundred years though the shackles are broken and the body is set free the African diaspora is yet to break free from the vice like spiritual grip of slavery. Adopting the generic name “X formerly known as…” wouldn’t do any good. Going by the African tribal names added nothing but ridicule to the cause. The blanket cultural assumption of an Arab identity made the African diaspora a laughing stock.  If you chance on the name Karim Abdul Jabar and feel like only half the name is spelled don’t blame yourself as the name belongs to an Afro-American. Apparently Afro-Americans didn’t know about the larger and longer Arab slave trade that had dominated the East coast of the African continent from the gulf of Mozambique in the South to the Egyptian ports in the North East.  In their effort to flee the slavery legacy and bloody scene of crime they anchored at another shore of former thriving slave market in the Arabian Peninsula.     

What is more this incapacitating spiritual slavery is making huge dents in to the Continent itself in unprecedented scale. We are witnessing enfeebled up start well to do families training their kids to speak “broken” Amharic like second generation hyphenated Ethiopians do in the wider Diaspora. The funniest thing is they try to parade the walking monsters in a bunch of cheap TV talk shows programs that are defiling the airwaves.     

Equally, in the face of the impassioned Afro-Caribbean advocacy to understand native African civilization by redefining and broadening the relevance of the Ge’ez alphabet and the nativity of the three Abrahamic faiths of revelation to the Continent, the rest of urban Africa is predominantly Western in almost all aspects of modernization and development. One can always detect that slight sense of superiority in the eyes of the African Diaspora in Addis towards the locals- solely on account having the impression of being better ‘appended’ to the West.   

2- The Sudden Rise of the Abigails and the Aarons

We are raising a new generation of kids with all sorts of odd sounding obsolete Hebraic names. In under three decades it would be difficult to come across regular Christian names such as Gebremariam and Woldmichael in Passport last names. They are certain to be phased out.

At this one time, a local comedian who has perfected rural Amharic dialect noted in passing “the kid had a Private School name”. It was then I tried to observe the sudden invasion of Hebraic names in the town.  It looks like parents are loathe to give their kids local regular names as it suggest a life style suspended in the lower rungs of the Nation’s social station. This urge to jump out of one’s skin sometimes assumes a comical turn. In one of the provincial towns I was granted an audience with the local chief with the weirdest sounding first name-Johansson.  At first I assumed he was an adopted son of a Nordic family and timidly inquired about his given name. No, that is it! Johansson is his first given name. Rather a name he had given himself.

In this connection I remember reading a funny quip made by the late Tesfaye Gebre-ab. He was bemoaning losing touch with the generation coming of age around the turn of the Century. He wrote that in his prime the hottest girls were named Eskedar, Meskerem and Hilina, now we are having some difficulty training our vocal cords to pronounce names like Mariamawit and Arsemawit. Not in so many words but just about. I wish Megabi Hadis Eshetu Alemayehu were to enlighten us regarding the legitimacy of such names from canonical perspective.

God Bless.

The writer can be reached via estefanoussamuel@yahoo.com